First Encounters in the Kalahari: Wild Dog Wonders

First Encounters in the Kalahari: Wild Dog Wonders

Richard Gouveia • 12/04/2024

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It was our first afternoon in the Kalahari, and excitement buzzed in the air as we landed after a two-hour flight from Johannesburg. Our guide greeted us warmly, and without missing a beat, we shared our hopes: We were eager to see the elusive wild dogs. 

Wasting no time, we left our bags to catch up with us later and headed straight toward the area where the wild dog den was located. As we approached, anticipation grew, but the den was empty—no sign of the dogs or their pups. Determined not to give up, we decided to loop around on a nearby track in search of them. Barely ten minutes later, luck struck. There they were, trotting down the road toward us, their characteristic energy on full display.

Knowing how relaxed wild dogs can be around people on foot, we carefully drove ahead and stopped 300 meters further down the road to position ourselves for a closer, more natural encounter. Quietly, we climbed out and lay low in the Kalahari sand, waiting. 

One by one, they came into view, their curiosity palpable. Trotting up to us, they sniffed the air and inspected us with keen interest, as if trying to decipher what these strange humans lying in the sand were up to. Cameras clicked softly as we captured this intimate moment—an encounter both humbling and exhilarating. 

Eventually, the pack moved on and so did we. Following their lead, we tracked them as they ventured toward a nearby dam. There, we once again crouched low beside our vehicle to photograph them drinking from the water. The scene was surreal: the dogs, bathed in the golden light of the setting sun, their reflection shimmering in the stillness of the dam. True to their inquisitive nature, they approached us again, sniffing and observing with innocent curiosity. It was a moment of connection that transcended words. 

As the light began to fade, their focus shifted. The hunt was on. The pack set its sights on a group of impalas, and in an instant, the stillness of the evening turned electric. The dogs moved with astonishing speed and coordination, weaving through the Kalahari bush. We raced to keep up, our Land Rover zigzagging through the terrain like a needle threading through fabric. 

But nature had its way. The waning light and dense bush soon obscured the pack, and we lost them to the night. Reluctantly, we turned back, hearts still pounding from the adrenaline of the chase. Back at camp, we settled into our rooms and prepared for dinner, reflecting on an incredible first day. 

The Kalahari had already left its mark. Under its vast, starlit sky, we marveled at the raw beauty of this wild place and the unforgettable introduction it had given us to its most charismatic predators.