Cruising down the Okavango Delta seeking wonder

Cruising down the Okavango Delta seeking wonder

Richard Gouveia • 12/04/2024

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The afternoon’s plan was simple yet promising: a motorboat cruise through the winding channels of the Okavango Delta. Despite warnings that we might only see birds, our adventure began with an unexpected spectacle. Within just fifteen minutes, we encountered a massive herd of elephants grazing on the lush grasses of the Delta. Submerged deep in the water, they moved gracefully, adults and babies alike pulling at the grass, the youngest of the herd stretching their trunks skyward for air as they waded through the water. 

As the elephants crossed the channel, we positioned ourselves strategically to watch. The water reached the shoulders of the adults while the calves, with their trunks acting like little periscopes, made adventurous yet cautious attempts to breathe as they swam.

Amidst this gentle giant parade, we turned our attention momentarily to the skies. The birdlife did not disappoint; from majestic Goliath herons to a solitary wattled crane flying overhead, and a Pied Kingfisher, the Delta was alive with avian activity.

The day concluded with a sunset that painted the sky in fiery hues of orange, mirrored perfectly by the reflective waters below, creating a scene of tranquil beauty. 

The next morning, under the cover of pre-dawn darkness, our mission was to visit an elephant carcass, a recent site of lion activity. En route, the wild greeted us with a dramatic display: two warthogs engaged in a fierce battle, tusks clashing with such intensity that they sent each other reeling. The victor stood tall as the vanquished fled. Rounding another corner, we caught a fleeting glimpse of a porcupine, its long quills a blur as it scurried into the safety of its burrow—two seconds of wildlife drama that left us marvelling at the encounter.

Arriving at the scene of the carcass, the dynamics among the lions unfolded. Two males were feeding vigorously, with two females nearby, their playful antics contrasting with the grim feast. One of the males wrestled to find the best spot to savour his chosen portion: the elephant’s cheek. After satisfying his hunger, he sauntered past our vehicle, a picture of feline contentment, while a lioness rested nearby, her gaze calm and measured.

Our return journey was unexpectedly majestic as we encountered a massive herd of buffalo. Initially estimated at around 150, the numbers grew as more of the herd came into view, eventually swelling to an impressive thousand. They moved en masse, drinking from the spillway and grazing around it. As we neared our bush breakfast spot, a curious hippo gave a warning yawn, signalling our cautious approach.

However, nature had one more surprise in store. As we approached a deep crossing, hundreds of vultures began to descend, their shadows cast over the tall grass where something unseen stirred. Urging our driver to quicken the pace, we edged closer and finally spotted the culprits: a pack of wild dogs had made a kill. Despite our efforts to cross the channel and get a closer look, the terrain proved challenging, and we eventually had to abandon the attempt.

Back at the lodge, the day wound down to a peaceful close. From our decks, we watched as impalas frolicked, baboons played, and mongooses skittered about—a vibrant tapestry of life unfolding in this beautiful piece of Africa, a serene ending to a day filled with the raw and exhilarating beauty of the wild.